Sri Lanka in 13 days - Culture, nature and beach
Sri Lanka in 13 days
Culture, nature & beach
February 16th-28th 2018
Culture, nature & beach
February 16th-28th 2018
How to make the most of Sri Lanka in 13 days?
Lush nature, beautiful beaches, diverse landscapes and fascinating historical heritage, there are many good reasons to go to Sri Lanka. Clearly, 13 days is not long enough to visit all around the island. Our idea was to see the highlights at our own pace without spending too much time commuting. We selected the sites we did not want to miss:
- Culture: the ancient cities of Sigirya, Polonnaruwa and Dambulla
- Nature: tea region and mountain around Haputale + a safari in Yala National Park
- Beach on the south coast in Tangalle and the colonial town of Galle
It would have been complicated to stick to our program if we only used local buses and trains. We took the bus as much as possible because it was cheap. But some journeys like Negombo-Sigirya can be a pain with public transport because of the multiple connections and the lack of timetable. So we did not hesitate to take a driver when it could save us time and energy. Overall we found the best solution was to alternate private drivers and public transport which did not stretch our budget too much.
Our typical journey time was from 2 to 3 hours on average. The longest one was 6 hours from Kandy to Haputale by train. For short distances weoften used the tuk tuk. They can actually take you almost anywhere. A tuk tuk ride from Dambulla to Kandy or from Haputale to Uda Walawe is totally doable. These guys are legends!
13 DAYS ITINERARY: Detailed itinerary with our photos and comments further down
Day 3: Sigirya -Polonnaruwa - Sigirya
Day 4: Sigirya - Dambulla - Matale - Kandy
Day 5: Kandy
Day 6: Kandy - Haputale
Day 7: Haputale - Lipton's Seat
Day 8: Haputale - Bambarakanda Falls
Day 9: Haputale - Tissa
Day 10: Tissa- Yala - Tangalle
Day 11: Tangalle
Day 12: Tangalle - Galle
Day 13: Galle - Colombo Int'l Airport
TRANSPORT
BUS JOURNEYS
- SIGIRYA - POLONNARUWA
From Inamaluwa Junction to Polonnaruwa: 1 hour 30 min - 150 Rs
Inamaluwa Junction is 15 minutes from Sigirya by bus or tuk tuk
- HAPUTALE - LIPTON'S SEAT
From down town to Dambatenne Factory: 35 minutes - 100 Rs - Then it is a 7 Km hike through the tea plantations to the top
- HAPUTALE - BAMBARAKANDA FALLS
From down town to Kalupahana Junction: 25 minutes - 150 Rs - Then hike 7 Km to the waterfalls passing by villages, forests and paddy fields.
- TISSA - TANGALLE
2 hours - 220 Rs
- TANGALLE - GALLE
2 hours and 30 minutes - 150 Rs + 50 Rs per baggage
The buses are the kings of the road! They drive very fast and don't hesitate to overtake even if there is an oncoming car. When we had our first bus ride to go to Polonnaruwa we almost had a heart attack. But they know what they are doing.
The buses get really packed so you might have to stand and let your baggage in front beside the driver which is totally safe. You can easily find a seat if you start your journey from Tissa or Tangalle's bus terminal and the driver's assistant will take care of finding space for your baggage.
TRAIN
KANDY - HAPUTALE
6 hours - 200 RS
The morning trains leaving Kandy to the tea region are at 8:50 am and 11:20 am. If you take the early one be prepared to jump in the first carriage despite the crowds and squeeze in! We were not aggressive enough so we missed the first train. Luckily the second one was less busy and we managed to have seats.
To have a seat guaranteed you need to book 30 days in advance for the 1st or 2nd class. If not, you need to buy your ticket on the day of departure directly at the station. This is what most of the tourists do. Don't worry, the tickets for the 2nd or 3rd class can't be sold out. But seats are not guaranteed!
TRANSFER BY PRIVATE DRIVER / TAXI
- COLOMBO AIRPORT - NEGOMBO
20 minutes - 2,000 Rs. Book your taxi at the arrival terminal at a stand. They give you the receipt and you can pay the driver directly.
- NEGOMBO - SIGIRYA
4 hours (150 Km) - 9,500 Rs / $60
- SIGIRYA - DAMBULLA - MATALE - KANDY
7,000 Rs with a stop at Dambulla caves, Golden Buddha Temple and a spice garden in Matale
- HAPUTALE - TISSA
3 hours - 7,000 Rs
- GALLE - COLOMBO AIRPORT
2 hours 45 minutes - 8,500 Rs
No direct bus Galle to the airport so it can take 4 to 5 hours by bus.
It was always easy a driver even at the last minute. The guesthouses and hotels can arrange it. But we also got great deals thanks to some tuk tuk drivers who had connections with car drivers. Don't hesitate to ask them.
ACCOMMODATION
We stayed from budget to mid-range places mostly in guesthouses with prices ranging from $12 to $90. We liked staying in guesthouses more than hotels because we felt more warmly welcome by families and the curries were much better. Without any doubt we had the best rice and curry in guesthouses.
- 1 night in Negombo: Villa Kapuru $80
- 2 nights in Sigirya: Sigirya Rock Gate $12 per night = Very good deal!
- 2 nights in Kandy: Redhill Kandy $45 per night
- 3 nights in Haputale: Leisure Mount view Holiday Inn $50 per night
- 1 night in Tissamaharama: Blue Turtle Hotel $90
- 2 nights in Tangalle: Serein Beach Hotel $45 per night
- 1 night in Galle: Villa Musin $48
All prices include breakfast except the last night in Galle.
They are all guesthouses except in Negombo, Tissa and Tangalle.
OUR TOP 7 HIGHLIGHTS
- The random dance festival our first night in Negombo Beach
- Watching the sunset from Sigirya rock
- Cycling around the ruins and gardens of Polonnaruwa
- Kandy Botanical Garden with its impressive collection of huge tropical trees and colonies of bats
- The rice and curry and the stunning view from the Redhill Kandy guetshouse
- Walking through the tea plantations and Tamil villages in Lipton's seat near Haputale
- Waking-up hearing the sound of the waves and feeling the sea breeze in Tangalle
A FEW TIPS:
- Safari in Uda Walawe or Yala?
If we had to do it again, we would go to Uda Walawe rather than Yala without a doubt. Yala was really disappointing. We queued 45 minutes to get in the park and we saw nothing but 4 elephants, peacocks, deers (almost as impressive as those in Richmond Park London), and a few buffalos. You can try your luck to see leopards but the chances are very low. Anyway, not the greatest safari especially if you have been to Africa before. However in Uda Walawe it is guaranteed to see families of elephants from a close distance.
- The Knuckle Range
You can spot these mountains on the road from Matale to Kandy.It looks like a paradise for hikers. We regretted we did not manage to include this in our itinerary. If we could change the Day 4, we would leave Sigirya very early in the morning, visit the Dambulla caves at the opening time, skip the visit of the spice garden in Matale (which was so so) and make a detour to the Knuckle range to have a picnic lunch and a 2 hours walk before leaving to Kandy.
DETAILED ITINERARY
After a smooth flight with Etihad via Abu Dhabi, arrival at Colombo Bandaranaike international airport around 15:20. We passed immigration and picked our bags with no hassle.
After a 20 minutes taxi drive for 2,000 rupees, we arrived at our hotel Villa Kapuru located in a quiet area 5 minutes from the Negombo beach and the main road with restaurants and bars. It is a nice colonial building with only a few rooms and a small swimming pool. The manager is a Londoner who used to run a pub in Greenwich. $80 per night with breakfast.
The atmosphere in Negombo was laid back. We walked to the beach for sunset and were happy to see there was a lot going on : loud music, boat race and performances on stage. The dancers were amazing performing a mix of traditional dances with modern and Bollywood influences. We were so lucky to see this for our first night and it kept us awake.
Then we had dinner at Lord's which was supposed to be the most fancy place around. I was good as a first introduction to Sri Lankan curry with a western twist. Donny's sensitive belly felt good afterwards so safe place to eat 😃!
First sunset at Negombo Beach
Local catamarans with bamboo mast
😍😍
This guy was licking the fire 😱
Day 2: SIGIRYA
We arranged the transfer from the hotel with a driver. It took us 4 hours to get to Sigiriya.
Negombo-Sigirya = 150km. We paid 9,500 Rs ($61).
We arrived at the guesthouse in a quiet area surrounded by houses and the jungle. The Rock is only a 15 minutes bike ride. We took the host's bikes and went to have a quick lunch before heading to the rock.
The climb up to sigirya rock is a must. Haggle to get a guide. We paid 2000 rupies for both of us and it was worth the price. To be able to learn the history adds an extra dimension to the experience. Interesting facts; the ruler of the rock had killed his father to get power and had 500 concubine for himself. 1.36 women per a day...
Negombo-Sigirya = 150km. We paid 9,500 Rs ($61).
Donny taking a nap on the long drive with the mouth wide open 😄
We arrived at the guesthouse in a quiet area surrounded by houses and the jungle. The Rock is only a 15 minutes bike ride. We took the host's bikes and went to have a quick lunch before heading to the rock.
The guesthouse Sigiriya Rock Gate is $12 a night with breakfast.
The hosts are a lovely family with 2 kids. They only have 3 rooms, new and very clean. Despite being in the jungle, the Internet was super fast.
The garden leads on to the jungle. The hosts said the elephants paid a visit ever so often...
Lunch for 100 Rs: String hoppers (rice noddles) and wade (fried lentil cake). No cutlery so eaten with our hands like locals!
The climb up to sigirya rock is a must. Haggle to get a guide. We paid 2000 rupies for both of us and it was worth the price. To be able to learn the history adds an extra dimension to the experience. Interesting facts; the ruler of the rock had killed his father to get power and had 500 concubine for himself. 1.36 women per a day...
Otherwise it's just a 30 dollar walk up.
4pm was a good time to arrive at the park entrance. Nice walk around the garden and the ruins.
On the way to the top, nice stop at the cave to see the remaining paintings of the concubines. They were so sensual that the Buddhist monks sensored them...
We arrived just on time to watch the sunset from the top
There are always friends to be made up there 🐒
We stayed till sunset and were the last tourists to leave the site. How romantic! But at only 7pm it was already pith dark and we had to cycle home. Luckily as experienced travelers we always pack a torch light. We didn't get lost and didn't meet any wild elephants on the way. Which was maybe a good thing because we would have freaked out!
Day 3: POLONNARUWA
The day started with our first typical Sri Lankan breakfast served by the host's wife.
Roti served with black eyed beans and sambol, a grated spicy coconut condiment. And a not spicy one for Carole
Polonnaruwa is about 40 km from Sigiryia so we took a tuk-tuk to Inamaluwa Junction and then a bus. Total journey = 1h30 and 300 rupies for both.
Waiting for the bus near the guesthouse... It never came so we took a tuk-tuk. Price started at 300 rupees but I took it down to 100. Which was useless as Saint Donny tipped him an extra 100 😑
The bus drivers are mental. They perform overtaking manoeuvres like it's a F1 car, whilst playing chicken with on coming traffic. Rule of the land, bigger always wins. It's just a tad scary when the oncoming vehicle travelling at equal speed is another bus.
As we got off the bus, we were accosted by a local bike shop owner who tried to get us to rent the bikes from him. After some skillful negotiations from Carole we hired two bikes for 300 rupees. The bikes were not up to standard, but for that price and no contract it was a good deal. You have to buy the tickets from the museum up the hill then cycle for 500 meters to the Polonnaruwa Ruins park entrance.
The site was huge and with the sun beating down on us so we took our time. This time we didn't take any guide and we regretted it. But cycling and walking at our own pace in this vast ancient city was magical.
Getting lost and cycling around the ruins of Sri Lanka's ancient capital and listed on the UNESCO World heritage
People have to take their shoes of when walking around the stupa. The floor is super hot so a good tip is bring a pair of socks in your bag.
Well maintained stupa. You can't visit inside but you can get in the two altars in front.
This ancient capital of Sri Lanka is now inhabited by monkeys eager to steal your food, docile dogs and a few cows. There are few vendors selling water so you can refuel there. But don't expect any proper food. Just fresh fruits mostly coconuts, spicy samosas and crisps. If you have a fresh coconut juice, don't hesitate to ask them to cut the fruit once you finish the juice so you can eat the delicious flesh. Tasty and full of vitamins!
We stayed 4 hours in the park and we skipped the museum. Before dropping the bikes back to the shop, we cycled along the lake and the paddy fields. Some women were washing and bathing in the lake. We would have loved to stay until the sunset but the last bus to Sigirya was around 6 pm. Apparently driving in the area when it is dark can be dangerous because of unseen obstacles such as elephants crossing the road. 🐘
Cycling along the lake and the paddy fields before sunset
We returned the bikes and spotted a guy waiting along the main road. This is how we knew where the bus stop was. In Sri Lanka it is rare to see any signs to indicate the bus stops. We waited about 10 minutes but the problem was when it came, it was packed. Annoying packed like the tube except the doors were not closed to ventilate the bus. Donny was the last on and had to hang on with dear life, while the bus driver was performing Lewis Hamilton moves around bends and shifting through traffic. Best bus ride ever. The cherry on top of the cake was when we saw a wild elephant using the road as its toilets 😂
Epic bus ride
When we finally returned at the guesthouse we were starving. The host's wife prepared a selection of veggie curries and fried fish for us:
Green mango curry (sweet and sour), dhal, Gotukola sambol (chopped parsley and grated coconut), okra, cassava and fried fish fillets.
Day 4: SIGIRYA - DAMBULLA - MATALE - KANDY
The host arranged a driver to take us to Dambula Cave Temple and then to Kandy with a stop in a spice garden in Matale. 7000 rupees total for the day.
Dambula is a 45 minutes ride from Sigiryia. The site is a Buddhist temple built on a granite rock and includes natural caves containing amazing paintings and more than 150 statues.
From the parking you need to take a few stairs up to the ticket point ($15 a ticket). Then you need to walk further up. Once you are at the top, you need to take off your shoes and cover your shoulders to get in the temple.
Stunning view from the top of the rock
The troglodyte temple includes 5 natural caves
The caves are beautifully painted and host long lines of buddha statues.
There is also a Hindu temple within the Buddhist temple which was quite confusing for us. We were explained that many Sri Lankan people who are Buddhist also worship Hindu deities like Vishnu.
We took a guide hoping to learn more about Buddhism. He had his speech perfectly prepared but didn't seem to understand our questions.
This sign reflects the teaching posture
On the way back to the main road, we stopped at the Golden Buddha temple. Just the time to take a few photos and go up to the roof. We did not go inside.
Golden Buddha Temple
Following stop in a spice garden in Matale. We were not really impressed. The garden was very small although we were expecting bigger plantations like in Zanzibar. But the only purpose of this visit is to make you buy medicinal products at their shop. So they use the sales strategy of offering you a free guided tour, massage and even a "free" consultation with a so called doctor (who asked a donation for his charity at the end). Donny even got a hair removal sample on his leg. They told him it was a natural depilatory cream made of aloe vera and ginger woods. Which he believed although it was most likely some Veet cream... 😅
If you have never seen spice plants before you might like it. Otherwise, you can skip it.
We arrived in Kandy around 3pm. Our guesthouse was high up on the hill away from the hustle and bustle of Kandy. We were thrilled when we saw the amazing view from the house.
View from our room with a welcoming papaya juice
Red Hill Kandy, $45 per night with breakfast.
At the end of the afternoon we took a tuk tuk down to the Kandy Cultural center to see a traditional kandyan. They perform everyday at 5pm.
The costumes were beautiful. We would have probably enjoyed the show if we had not seen the great dance festival in Negombo our first day. That said if you don't have any other opportunity to see a sri Lankan show during your trip, then go for it. Arrive early to get the best seats and buy the tickets at the door. 1000 rupees a ticket.
After the show we were craving beers. But Kandy is a religious town and doesn't have many options for bars. We decided to take a few beers from a supermarket to the guesthouse.We could not find the liquor section. It was actually hidden in the basement down stairs! No surprise to see only men in the queue when sri lankan women have been banned from buying alcohol!
The liquor section in the supermarket
Back to the guesthouse with our warm beers, we had the best Rice and curry since the beginning of our trip. Cooked with love by the host's mum ❤ We ate like kings for 1000 Rs per person.
Sorry nothing to show... we were starving and didn't have lunch that day ! The chicken curry at its finest served with lemongrass rice and 5 veggie sides. Carole had a revelation about curry that day...
Day 5: KANDY
We woke up later than the days before and had a fabulous breakfast overlooking the hills and river.
Lovely breakfast with a view at the Red Hill Kandy
The plan was to see the botanical garden and go the tooth temple for the 6pm ceremony.
Our host suggested to take a tuk tuk for the day as it would work out cheaper. The Botanical Garden was 10 Km from Kandy. He said we could hit 4 additional spots: the British cemetery, the white Buddha Temple, the tea factory and the view point. I was not really sold thinking it was another tourist trap but Donny was happy to do it. He is always ready to accept the first offer whereas I am the cautious (or tight) one. Anyway we got our tuk tuk for the day and for 3000 rupees...
Tuk-tuk tour in Kandy for the day
First stop at the Botanical Garden. The driver waited for us outside. We bought the ticket (1500 Rs each) and crossed a cable bridge to get in the garden. From the bridge we could see men washing in the river. Donny thought I was staring at them shameless until he realized I was actually watching the lizard almost as big as a crocodile which was standing on a rock near them!!
Crossing the Indiana Jones bridge to get in the botanical garden
View from the bridge with the enormous lizard on the bottom left
This garden is a real gem. A paradise for all nature lovers and curious. It is a vast garden of 147 acres where you can explore more than 4000 species of tropical trees, flowers and medicinal plants. You can learn a lot as the names are posted on signs. The collection of giant trees including giant bamboos and palms is impressive.
The java fig tree: this is not 4 separate trees but a single tree. Through evolution able to branch out and grow.
Giant Australian tree
Canonball tree. The fruits are edible but not popular because of their bad smell
The candle tree.
The garden seems to be a romantic spot for the young Sri Lankan couples kissing in the shade 💏
Nutmeg
Cloves
Giant bamboos
The bats seem to rule the park. A quick look up and you can see hundreds of bats perched and chirping away. Donny managed to photograph a few good action shots.
Keep your head up not to miss the bats hanging in the trees
No comment 😂
We loved the garden so much we stayed 4 hours. The tuk tuk was still waiting for us outside.
Next stop: the tea factory
We had a quick free tour which was quite informative. We were offered a nice cuppa 😊
Outside the tea factory we walked up a hill of tea plantations and met an old lady picking tea. She was welcoming and waved at us.
An old lady tea pcker
3rd stop: The English cemetery
Failed. We arrived too late as it was closed by 4pm. It looked small and nothing amazing by the look of it.
The White buddha temple
It had a entrance fee off 500 rupees and nothing to see but the view. So we decided against it as we were going to the tooth temple and a panoramic view later on.
White Buddha temple
From the view point above the lake
Panoramic view
The tooth temple - 6pm ceremony
The dress code is very strict: bare foot, shoulders and legs covered. So even shorts for men are banned. Donny had to bargain a sarong at the local market for 400 rupees.
The Temple of the sacred tooth relic is an important spot for Buddhist devotes as it contains the sacred tooth relic of Buddha. Replica or authentic, this is a mystery...
The entrance fee for tourists is 1500 rupees which is expensive for a religious site.
Donny looking delighted to wear his sarong 😄
The super heros socks add a perfect touch 👌
Ceremonies at the Tooth temple are 3 times a day. One in the morning then 6pm and 9pm.
We followed the crowd of prayers who were dressed in white.
The ceremony starting in the tooth temple
The ceremony was quite incense: many people, loud drummers and music. We didn't really understand what was going on and we felt we were in their way. Not because we felt unwelcome but from a non Buddhist perspective we found no reason to attend the whole ceremony. There were many tourists waiting in the room with the prayers though. We decided to carry on the visit.
In the last room, there are paintings and texts in English explaining the history of the sacred tooth and how the Sri Lankan people had to fight over the Indians, Portuguese and British to keep ownership of the sacred relic.
Return to the guesthouse. We had another delicious dinner with a slightly different version of rice and curry from the day before.
Day 6: KANDY - HAPUTALE
We started early with a glorious sunrise with the intentions of catching the first train out of Kandy at 8:50am. The logic was sound, but the execution was poor.
Sunrise at 6:30am from our balcony. The Sound ambience was a mix of Buddhist pray songs and the mobile bread sellers.
Kandy train station at 7:45 am.
We queued to get our tickets. The guy who was selling them said our chances to have a seat in the second class were likely. You only can buy 2nd or 3rd class. They can't be sold out so you can buy them the same day. 1st class seats and reserved 2nd class tickets tickets can be reserved online a long time in advance.
Mainly tourists waiting on the same platform as us. Most of them were going to Ella, the most visited town in the hill country. There were also many hikers going to trek in the Horton Plains or climb Adam's Peak. It was a good time to chat with a few travelers and share experience or tips.
The train arrived already packed. There were many commuters to work, tourists and school kids. Rush hour... which reminded us of the joys of the overpacked tube in London.
We could not get on...
We could not get on...
We would have made it if we had followed the rules below:
- Be more aggressive instead of faffing around. The Sri Lankan method to reserve a seat is throwing their bag inside by the window
- Get in the first carriage closer to you when the train approaches the platform. It doesn't matter if you booked a second class ticket and you get in the 3rd class. They are the same so take the first opportunity except the reserved 2nd class coach and 1st class. We cheekily tried to get in those but failed as they checked the tickets.
- Don't be claustrophobic! We managed to get on a third class carriage filled with Sri Lankans helped us on. It was packed, uncomfortably caged in. Carole cracked and we left the carriage.
To be honest I was happy we were off.
- Get in the first carriage closer to you when the train approaches the platform. It doesn't matter if you booked a second class ticket and you get in the 3rd class. They are the same so take the first opportunity except the reserved 2nd class coach and 1st class. We cheekily tried to get in those but failed as they checked the tickets.
- Don't be claustrophobic! We managed to get on a third class carriage filled with Sri Lankans helped us on. It was packed, uncomfortably caged in. Carole cracked and we left the carriage.
To be honest I was happy we were off.
2hours 1/2 waiting for the next train
The next train was at 11:20am we waited in the shade making friends with the local food vendor. His samosas and egg rottis are amazing. We got our breakfast and lunch pack from him.
With the correct carriage positioning and the right frame of mind we boarded the train. The 11:20am train was less packed with locals so maybe opt for this option.
Plan B was to take a taxi. Some drivers waited for tourists missing their train to offer their services. It was quite funny they reminded us of vultures circling around their prey.
Plan B was to take a taxi. Some drivers waited for tourists missing their train to offer their services. It was quite funny they reminded us of vultures circling around their prey.
The 6 hour train ride was tedious. Don't get us wrong the amazing views are fantastic if you have a seat with a view or doorway. We didn't till the the last hour. But for 400 rupees for both of us you can't go wrong. There are many vendors of samosas, fried prawns, wade (fried dhal cakes with chilly), fresh pineapple. Don't be frightened to buy from them it looks good.
Six hours on the train from Kandy to Haputale
We arrived at Haputale just before dusk. A long day rewarded by an amazing view on the tea plantation from our hotel.
View from our balcony, mist and tea plantations.
Our room at the Leisure Mount View Holiday Inn - 7000 Rs per night ($45)
With the higher altitude, the temperature is noticeably cooler in the evening. It felt like being back in England. It gets misty in the early morning and evening.
Very good buffet of various veggie curries for dinner: pumpkin, brinjal (caramelized aubergines with chili and onions), dhal, okra, cabbage and poppadom. Served with rice and rice noddles. Dessert was buffalo curd, a sort of yogurt very popular in Sri Lanka with palm honey.
Day 7: HAPUTALE - Lipton's Seat
The pray call woke me up at 5am whilst Donny was still snoring.
After a nice breakfast we jumped in a tuk-tuk to reach Lipton's seat before 9am. The view at the top gets misty very quickly so better go as early as possible.
Passed Dambatenne tea factory, the 7 km road to hit the Lipton's seat starts. We asked the driver to drop us of 3 km before the top as we wanted to walk up.
We started 3 km before the Lipton's seat
The walk up to the top was quite easy by the road. We even saw a couple carrying their baby on the way up. We made it more challenging and fun by taking the short cuts through the tea plantations. Which was great to make contact with the tea pickers, all women with an incredible energy. The sun was very strong even though it was cloudy.
View from Lipton's seat at 9am
From his seat, Sir Lipton was overlooking the plantations and the workers
Fantastic view
There is a small place at the top where they sell tea and drinks but we walked back down taking short cuts. The women working in the tea plantations waved at us so we came closer and engaged with them. They did not ask for money. Donny offered them some biscuits.
Short cut through the plantations
The tea pickers are Tamils who came from India about 200 hundreds years ago. Picking tea is a tough job. The bag they carry weights 10 kilos. We learnt from a local met in the bus back to town that they get paid 700 Rs per day which means about £3.20 a day.
Will always give them credit when when enjoying a cuppa.
Each bag of tea leaves weighs 10 Kg. They are ready for the pick up to the factory
Tamil villages
On the way back down to Dambatenne, we stopped at some Tamil villages surrounded by the plantations. People seemed a bit surprised to see us but very welcoming.
Tamil village
Tamil Temple
Sometimes the terrain reminded us of our trip to Vietnam
A local guy was pleased to show the new house he was building
Walking to Dambatenne with the school kids
Dambatenne Factory
We felt the factory was not worth the stop as we had already visited a tea factory in Kandy. 250 Rs each and no cuppa at the end! 😞 Maybe stop there just for a toilet break...
Drying of process of the tea leaves
Don't worry the floor is super clean☺
We returned back to haputale by bus. We ignored the tuk tuk drivers who told us the next bus was in an hour. The bus departed as soon as we got in. The owner of the bus a retired journalist an interesting person. He believes the tea factories will close from global competition. He also spoke about the daily wage which is not equal for the tea pickers. An average of 700 rupees (roughly 3 pounds) per a day.
We stopped at a local eatery and ordered some Roti and veggie curry. It was the kind of place you would think definitely get food poisoning. But we went there on the former journalist's advice. It was the best roti we ate so far and the curry was good. Immodium still not required, so far so good👌😊
Back to the guesthouse, we walked in the nature around. More tea plantations and forests.
We spotted an eagle near the guesthouse
Day 8: HAPUTALE - BAMBARAKANDA FALLS
8am, the sky cleared up from the mist. Perfect weather for a hike to the waterfalls!
The Bambarakanda falls are located around the national park of the Horton Plains and are the highest waterfalls in Sri Lanka. Haputale is only 16 Km from Kalupahana Junction which is the starting point of the hike. Haputale is a great base to explore the diversity of the hill country's landscapes, from green tea plantations to stunning mountains.
The bus 99 goes to Kalupahana Junction. It is a 40 minutes ride going down the mountain. Opposite the bus stop, there is a small Buddhist altar and a grocery shop. This is where the 7 Km trail to the falls starts.
We started the hike after buying a sort of sugar loaf to the local grocery. It felt much warmer than in Haputale. We were the only tourists walking whereas other people were ushered to the falls by tuk tuk. We must be crazy to enjoy hiking in the heat! As we passed some paddy fields and a village, we were granted by the locals. Lush vegetation and verdant green mountain, Sri Lanka is a garden of Eden.
Carole spotted stairs from the road to the mountain and thought it was a short cut. After 10 minutes climbing up in the forest it became more steep and harder to see the trail. We had no idea where we were going and it was too steep to turn back...We finally ended to the top and back on the road. Carole's short cut was in fact a detour. At least we had a nice view on Bambarakanda falls. And she found a friend: a dirty leech on her shoe.
At the checking point of the falls, we were charged 150 Rs per person. From there we followed a trail leading to the small basin. It was nice and peaceful but don't hold your breath if you expect something like the Niagara or Iguazu falls.
From there we headed to Lanka Falls. It was a mission to find the trail and there was no sign indicating the direction. We went through a nice pine trees forest offering a great view on the valley, then we walked 500 through high pampa grass whilst the heat was brutal. We met a group of French people who were doing the 22 Km hike from Ohiya. Their guide confirmed we were going to the right direction. Great, we were not lost!
We finally found the Lanka Falls. Good spot for a refreshing break and snack but not great for swimming. Carole found two more leeches on her trainers. She was so traumatized she did not want to put her bathing suit on.
As we left Lanka Falls and on the way back to the checking point, we met a woman walking down carrying a big bag of tea leaves on her head. We could tell she did not care about leeches as she was wearing flip flops. Donny as a real gentleman helped her to carry the bag. He did great for a few hundreds meters until he slid and fell. Well deserved for trying to hit on local women! But seriously Sri Lankan women have super powers, they are really strong!
Back to the bus station at Kalupahana Junction and then to the guesthouse.
Day 9: HAPUTALE - TISSA
Departure at 9am for the south in Tissamaharama (just say Tissa). We found a private driver the night before when we were hunting for the best in deal in town. We asked to a few people including restaurant and shop owners and a tuk tuk driver found us the best offer. 7,000 Rs for a private deal when the guesthouse was offering 8,500 Rs. We had a whole minivan for ourselves.
On the way to Tissa, the driver stopped at Rawana falls in Ella. It was nice but not as charming as Bambarakanda because it was crowded and located on the main road.
It was raining heavy when we arrived to Tissa. The main reason why the tourists spend a night in Tissa is to go to a safari in Yala National Park. There is a Buddhist temple with an impressive stupa, a big lake and the town is surrounded by beautiful paddy fields.
After a good lunch in town we just chilled out at the swimming pool in our hotel and had dinner there.
Day 10: YALA - TISSA - TANGALLE
We woke up at 4:30am to go to an early safari at Yala National Park which is 22 Km from Tissa.
The hotel arranged our pick up at 5am sharp by a private jeep for $90 total. We were not very lucky with the driver we had. He did not speak good English and he drove slowly like if he just had his driving licence.
Yala park is Sri Lanka's largest nature reserve. We chose this park because it is home to a vast array of wildlife including leopards. We arrived just before 6am and the parade of jeeps caused a traffic jam at the park entrance as the drivers leisurely brought the park pass. It felt like an age as we waited for him to return. Once back, the convoy of jeeps steady trickled through the entrance. Our driver being the slowest man in the world was overtaken at every turn.
Once in the park, the driver was excited to point out a spotted deer and the odd peacock. At the beginning it was OK but after some time we told him we were more excited about animals we couldn't see in Europe such as elephants or leopards. We only managed to see a young elephant from a close distance for a brief moment which was the highlight of the safari. The other elephants were too far in the bush.The most animals we saw were the buffaloes. They are much smaller than the ones in East Africa though.
After one hour and 30 minutes it became repetitive and boring. We were maybe to optimistic hoping to see leopards which is very unlikely. Overall we were disappointed by this safari.
Our hotel was located away from Tangalle town in a quiet area about 15 minutes by tuk tuk from the bus terminal. It was a perfect place to relax after a long day which started at 4:30 am.
The beach is amazing. Sadly the current is too strong for swimming and we were advised not to. For the two days we were there no one ventured into the sea. There was a mini lagoon which sheltered the waves.
The best thing to do there is walking along the beach stretching for kilometers and stopping at the beach huts to grab a cold drink or eat a grilled fish.
Day 11: TANGALLE
Relaxing day on the beach!
It was possible to walk 4 Km from the hotel to Tangalle town but we just wanted to be lazy and stay away from a busy town center.
Day 12: TANGALLE - GALLE
The bus from Tangalle to Galle takes about 2 h 30 min. We paid 200 Rs each including the extra for our baggage in the truck. We noticed the bus conductor was not charging the same price to each tourist. The normal price without baggage would be 120/150 Rs.
We arrived in Galle around 2:30 pm. It was a totally different atmosphere from the rest of the sites we visited in sri Lanka. The historical town is walled and the colonial architecture reflects the different heritages from Portuguese, Dutch and British. It was beautiful and very busy with tourists, many fancy cafés, terraces, western restaurants and fancy boutiques. It had a feel of visiting a village in South of France or Spain during the peak season in the summer.
Galle is good for shopping with many sophisticated designer shops, handicrafts, gems. It was perfect to end our trip there so we bought the typical souvenirs like tea, elephants carved in wood, painted coconut shells and ayurvedic products.
For our last evening in Sri Lanka, we had dinner at the restaurant the Lucky Fort which was recommended by our guesthouse. They served 10 different curries for 1500 Rs. It was a popular place packed with mostly British tourists. The staff was lovely and the food was good although it did not beat the curries we had in Kandy and Haputale.
Donny's tummy did not like it though. He got sick that night and the day after. It is a shame as he was so close to perform his first trip abroad without having toilet problems 😂😂
Departure from Galle around 8:15am with our private driver arranged by the guesthouse for 8500 Rs. The journey was only 2 hours and 45 minutes to the airport by the express highway.
We checked the public transport from Galle to the airport and it was not direct with 2 changes and uncertainty about the timetables. It would have probably taken more than 4 hours. With our flight to the Maldives at 13:30, we did not want to take any risks so taking a private driver was a great option.
And it was great not spending our last night in Negombo again but exploring Galle instead.
Flight to Male, bye Sri Lanka!
8am, the sky cleared up from the mist. Perfect weather for a hike to the waterfalls!
Map of the whole hike starting from Ohiya to Kalupahana Junction, 22km in 6 hours.
We planned to do a short hike from Kalupahana Junction to Lanka Falls and come back (14km).
The bus 99 goes to Kalupahana Junction. It is a 40 minutes ride going down the mountain. Opposite the bus stop, there is a small Buddhist altar and a grocery shop. This is where the 7 Km trail to the falls starts.
We started the hike after buying a sort of sugar loaf to the local grocery. It felt much warmer than in Haputale. We were the only tourists walking whereas other people were ushered to the falls by tuk tuk. We must be crazy to enjoy hiking in the heat! As we passed some paddy fields and a village, we were granted by the locals. Lush vegetation and verdant green mountain, Sri Lanka is a garden of Eden.
Verdant green mountain and paddy fields
Carole's "short cut". Don't take it!
Bambarakanda falls
Carole found a new companion on her trainers. A leech... Panic attack 😂
Bambarakanda falls
View on the valley
The pine forest
Going through the pampa grass
We saw the prettiest cricket in the world
We finally found the Lanka Falls. Good spot for a refreshing break and snack but not great for swimming. Carole found two more leeches on her trainers. She was so traumatized she did not want to put her bathing suit on.
Lanka river
Lanka falls
Donny carrying a tea bag in the forest
Back to the bus station at Kalupahana Junction and then to the guesthouse.
Day 9: HAPUTALE - TISSA
Departure at 9am for the south in Tissamaharama (just say Tissa). We found a private driver the night before when we were hunting for the best in deal in town. We asked to a few people including restaurant and shop owners and a tuk tuk driver found us the best offer. 7,000 Rs for a private deal when the guesthouse was offering 8,500 Rs. We had a whole minivan for ourselves.
On the way to Tissa, the driver stopped at Rawana falls in Ella. It was nice but not as charming as Bambarakanda because it was crowded and located on the main road.
Rawana falls, Ella.
After a good lunch in town we just chilled out at the swimming pool in our hotel and had dinner there.
Blue Turtle Hotel $90 per night with breakfast.
Nice spacious room and excellent shower.
Day 10: YALA - TISSA - TANGALLE
We woke up at 4:30am to go to an early safari at Yala National Park which is 22 Km from Tissa.
The hotel arranged our pick up at 5am sharp by a private jeep for $90 total. We were not very lucky with the driver we had. He did not speak good English and he drove slowly like if he just had his driving licence.
Yala park is Sri Lanka's largest nature reserve. We chose this park because it is home to a vast array of wildlife including leopards. We arrived just before 6am and the parade of jeeps caused a traffic jam at the park entrance as the drivers leisurely brought the park pass. It felt like an age as we waited for him to return. Once back, the convoy of jeeps steady trickled through the entrance. Our driver being the slowest man in the world was overtaken at every turn.
Traffic of jeeps to get in Yala Park
Once in the park, the driver was excited to point out a spotted deer and the odd peacock. At the beginning it was OK but after some time we told him we were more excited about animals we couldn't see in Europe such as elephants or leopards. We only managed to see a young elephant from a close distance for a brief moment which was the highlight of the safari. The other elephants were too far in the bush.The most animals we saw were the buffaloes. They are much smaller than the ones in East Africa though.
After one hour and 30 minutes it became repetitive and boring. We were maybe to optimistic hoping to see leopards which is very unlikely. Overall we were disappointed by this safari.
This is the best shot we had of the elephant we saw briefly
Without a camera of 55mm-110mm the elephants across the river were hard to spot
Peacock
Le cock, national bird of Sri Lanka.
Off to the beach in Tangalle!
After a delicious lunch in town, we took the bus to Tangalle. The 2 hours journey flew by as we fell asleep in the bus. The driver took the expressway which was quicker.
We highly recommend this local eatery opposite the bus terminal. It does not look pretty but it is yummy and cheap
Small tofu balls curry.
The taste of kaffir lime and lemongrass reminded me of Thai green curry.
Our hotel was located away from Tangalle town in a quiet area about 15 minutes by tuk tuk from the bus terminal. It was a perfect place to relax after a long day which started at 4:30 am.
Great sea view from our room at the Serein Beach hotel $45 per night with breakfast
The best thing to do there is walking along the beach stretching for kilometers and stopping at the beach huts to grab a cold drink or eat a grilled fish.
Day 11: TANGALLE
Relaxing day on the beach!
It was possible to walk 4 Km from the hotel to Tangalle town but we just wanted to be lazy and stay away from a busy town center.
There is a river behind the beach where you can rent a canoe
Our sand buddhist stupa
It was possible to walk 4 Km from the hotel to Tangalle town but we just wanted to be lazy and stay away from a busy town center.
The bus from Tangalle to Galle takes about 2 h 30 min. We paid 200 Rs each including the extra for our baggage in the truck. We noticed the bus conductor was not charging the same price to each tourist. The normal price without baggage would be 120/150 Rs.
Bus ride with ambience loud bollywood music
Galle is good for shopping with many sophisticated designer shops, handicrafts, gems. It was perfect to end our trip there so we bought the typical souvenirs like tea, elephants carved in wood, painted coconut shells and ayurvedic products.
Galle's fort built in the 16th century by the Portuguese
Donny's tummy did not like it though. He got sick that night and the day after. It is a shame as he was so close to perform his first trip abroad without having toilet problems 😂😂
Rice and 10 curries at The Lucky Fort in Galle
Day 13: GALLE - COLOMBO AIRPORT - MALDIVESDeparture from Galle around 8:15am with our private driver arranged by the guesthouse for 8500 Rs. The journey was only 2 hours and 45 minutes to the airport by the express highway.
We checked the public transport from Galle to the airport and it was not direct with 2 changes and uncertainty about the timetables. It would have probably taken more than 4 hours. With our flight to the Maldives at 13:30, we did not want to take any risks so taking a private driver was a great option.
And it was great not spending our last night in Negombo again but exploring Galle instead.
Flight to Male, bye Sri Lanka!
Next: The Maldives on budget in a local island
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