Seychelles on a budget, yes it is possible!

Last year, we found a flight from London to Mahé for £448 return with Ethiopian Airlines. Such a premium destination at this price, we didn't hesitate for a second! Well I had to convince my better half of two things though:

• No need to spend a fortune in 5-stars resorts
• The  Seychelles are not a boring beach holiday!

Actually the Seychelles have much more to offer than just sunbathing on a white sandy beach. With great hikes to explore the inland forest and the pristine beaches only accessible by foot or boat, it can turn out as a sportive and adventurous holiday.

Are you already checking the flights on Skyscanner? To help you plan your trip, this post can give you a few tips for an authentic and fun experience in the Seychelles  without burning all your money:

- How to plan your stay 

- Accommodation and food: the cheapest options

- Transport on the islands

- What to do?

How to plan your stay in the Seychelles

Combining the 3 islands of Mahé, La Digue and Praslin 
This is the best introduction to the Seychelles if it is your first visit. Each island has its own charms and highlights. Suggested itinerary  for a 12 days/11 nights stay based on our experience:

- Mahé: 4 nights 

- La Digue: 4 nights 

- Praslin: 3 nights
We flew to/from Mahé airport so we spent the 3 first nights and the last night in Mahé.

Mahé is the biggest and busiest island. Although many tourists gather in Beau Vallon, the rest of the island has many quiet beaches and great spots to snorkel. The mountain forest of the Morne Seychellois National Park is a real gem for nature lovers and serious hikers. The tiny capital of Victoria does not have much to see but the market near the Tamil Temple and the Botanical Garden.

La Digue is a little paradise with no cars. Some tourists go there only for one day to the  see the most photographed beach in the world called "Source d'argent". We loved the peaceful atmosphere in the island, cycling from one beach to another, watching the sunset with a cold beer, enjoying the hearty Creole dishes ans just taking our time. It was Donny's favorite island, mostly because we had great hosts who made us feel like family.

Praslin is also great for snorkeling and hiking. The highlight is a visit of the inland forest to see the endemic plants such as the "coco de mer", the most erotic coconut in the world with a crack in the middle suggesting a curved butt. There are also affordable boat excursions to snorkel around the nearby islands.

Inter island transfer with the Cat coco ferry
The Cat coco ferries are expensive but are the only option to go from Mahé to La Digue and Praslin. You will need to ad up €128 to your budget per person.
Mahé-La Digue: €64     
La Digue-Praslin: €14       
Praslin-Mahé: €50

Accommodation and food: the cheapest options

- Stay in a guesthouse
Share the house of a Creole family. Make yourself at home cooking your own breakfasts and dinners. We found our guesthouse in La Digue on Airbnb and it was one of the best experiences ever! We had our en-suite bathroom with air-con in the room for £45 a night in a nice house near the beach. We enjoyed the fish barbecue dinners and the fresh fruits picked from the garden every morning with our breakfast.

- Mid-budget alternative: Self-catering villa or apartment
If you prefer your privacy you can book an entire flat or house. The starting price for a one bedroom apartment is €60 a night in Mahé and €90 a night in La Digue or Praslin. Some self-catering options include services like the cleaning and breakfast served directly at your private terrace. Don't miss the yummy home-made banana jam and fresh juices.

Breakfast served on our private terrace - Chez Lester, Praslin

- Eat and drink Creole!
Avoid the tourist restaurants along the beach in Beau Vallon which charge €10 for a beer and €15 for 3 sushi. Instead try the local beer for €1.70 which you can buy from any shop and the Takamaka rum for €20 a bottle. Eat at the local cafes and takeways where you can have a Creole meal for €4. We recommend the coconut fish curry served with rice, dhal and green papaya chutney. They also serve grilled chicken and fish, fried noddles with vegetable and other specialties.

Try the Takamaka Rum!

- Share a meal with a Creole family
If you stay in a guesthouse and your hosts invite you to join them for dinner, don't be shy and say yes! It will be the chance to have a real taste of the Seychelles and embrace the Creole culture. The Creole food has diverse influences reflecting the Seychellois' mixed heritage from Afro, Indian, Chinese and French descents. Don't worry about food poisoning, the sanitary conditions in the Seychelles are excellent. Just avoid to drink the tap water.

Our hosts in La Digue cooked delicious Creole dinners for us. In return, Donny cooked them a full English breakfast which they loved!

- Pack your lunch 
For a lovely picnic on the beach or in the forest. Prepare a kick ass sandwich with the products you can easily buy in the local shops like bread, tuna cans, fresh tomatoes, eggs, and if in season the local avocados which are enormous and so tasty. Try the delicious breadfruit or cassava crisps. Don't forget some plastic bags to take all your rubbish with you :-)

- Pack food and alcohol in your baggage!
Many manufactured food products are three times more expensive than in Europe like alcohol, coffee and tea. So pack your fav English tea bags and coffee. Bring your vodka or whiskey (2 bottles max per person) so you can do your own mix with local juices and avoid paying €15 a cocktail. We even brought some tuna salad cans which are practical for picnics. Instant noddles soup are a good idea if you can't be bothered to cook. You can find all basic products at a reasonable price like bread, butter, pasta, eggs, rice, lentils, vegetable, fruits and milk. Fresh fish bought directly from the fishermen is very affordable too.

Restaurants and takeaways we tried and enjoyed:

- Takeway in Praslin: Coco Rouge https://www.cocorougesey.com/
- Restaurant in Praslin: La Goulue in Anse Volbert, is known as the "Best creole restaurant" in the island. Try the octopus curry (€17), a bit pricey but tasty and generous portions.
- Takeaways in La Digue: Mi Mum - Gala takeaway
- Restaurant in Mahé: Les Dauphins Heureux in Anse Royale, mid-budget and on the beach.

For a gastronomic experience: La Grande Maison, Plaine Saint-André in Mahé
The restaurant is in a colonial house in a former plantation. The Chef revisits French classics with a Creole twist using some local products. They were fully booked when we were there so we just had an excellent cocktail made with the rum from the house distillery. There was a set menu with five courses for 850 Rupees (€50) which looked amazing. Definitely book in advance for food or you can just pop in for a nice cocktail.

Rum cocktail on the front porch of La Grande maison - Mahé

Transport on the islands

In Mahé, take the bus 
Even though it is the biggest island, it is easy to commute by bus in Mahé. The ticket is 7 rupees (€0.40). The buses are frequent but it is hard to find a reliable timetable. The main hub is in Victoria's bus terminal to connect to different bus lines.
Taxis are ridiculously expensive. They charge €50 from Mahe's airport to Beau Vallon (only 8.5 miles). The airport's bus stop is just across the road when you pass the exit. All the buses go to the south or to Victoria. If the bus is packed and you carry a suitcase, the driver might not let you in. It is fine with a bag pack though. Otherwise you just need to wait for the next one as we did. We ignored the taxi driver who tried to convince us to take a ride with him, saying we had no chance to get in any bus with our roller bags. The next one arrived 5 minutes after and had enough space.

Here is the Seychelle public transport bus info: http://www.sptc.sc/web-booklets-download/
Don't hesitate to ask the locals. The Seychellois are very friendly and speak both English and French.

Cycle around La Digue
Since the cars are banned from the island, La Digue is a real paradise for cyclists. Everyone including locals and tourists use their bike to go to the beach, shopping or even to the church. You can find a bike rental everywhere in the island for €7 a day. The center of the island is quite hilly so if it is too hard to cycle you can park your bike anywhere and walk without worrying about getting your bike stolen. The island is absolutely safe and the bike renters usually give a padlock.

Taking your bike everywhere in La Digue

In Praslin, rent a car for a day
The buses in Praslin are not as frequent as in Mahé. If you carry any baggage, the bus drivers won't let you in unless it is a backpack which you can place on your lap. Otherwise you need to take a taxi. From the Cat coco ferries jetty to Côte d'Or, the ride costs 15 €.
The price of 60 € to rent a car for a day is certainly not cheap. But it is a good option to explore some parts of the island which are difficult to access by bus. We rented a car and were able to visit Fond Ferdinand and the beaches of the north east including Anse Georgette in a day. Driving along the gorgeous turquoise lagoons made us forget the price we paid for the car.

Driving along the stunning lagoons of Praslin

What to do?

Mahé:

• Walk along the coast on Anse Major trail (2 hours)
• Sportive hike in the Morne Seychellois National Park 
• Snorkeling: find your favorite spot on a quiet beach. We found our paradise in Anse Marie-Louise. We had the beach only for ourselves in the morning when the tide was low and saw many fishes and corals. There is a grocery nearby to buy drinks and fresh fruits bit no restaurant so bring your lunch.
• Cocktail or dinner at La Grande Maison in La Plaine St André (Book early in advance for dinner)

Hiking in the Morne Seychellois

Finding a beach just for yourself

La Digue:

• Go to Source d'Argent just before sunset. If you are lucky, they might let you in without paying the €7 fee!
• Explore the hidden beach of Anse coco walking through a small forest
• Hike to the highest peak at 333 meters "Le Nid d'Aigle" (The eagle's nest")

Enjoying the glorious sunset

Praslin:

• Visit the nature reserve of Fond Ferdinand (€10) instead of La Vallée de Mai (€25) to learn everything about the endemic coconut called "coco de mer" which is very unique to the Seychelles. Walk through the tropical forest and up to the view point with a guide.
• Cross the island from East to West through the stunning landscapes of "la Plaine Hollandaise"
• Watch the sunset and the bats at Anse Lazio. Go there by bus + walk 1 Km to the beach.  The last bus leaving Anse Lazio is at 5:45 pm. So if you want to stay for the sunset, arrange your pick up with a taxi driver from the parking nearby. He will wait for you, the ride to Côte d'Or is €15. Staying on the beach when everyone else has left and watching the sunset with the bats flying over is priceless.
• A taxi-boat excursion to Curieuse or St Pierre 
• Try the hike from Anse Lazio to Anse Georgette if you find the trail. We never found it and gave up not even half way!

Coco de mer growing in Fond Ferdinand Nature reserve

Excursion on a boat to snorkel around the nearby islands 

Interested in hikes and walks in the Seychelles? Next article coming soon!